Garment.



' July 25, |899.

Patented l. GOLDBEBGEH.

GARMEN T.

(Application filed Oct. 28. 1897.)

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Patented `July 25, |899. l. GULDBERGER.

GARMENT.

.Application flnd Oct. 28. 1897.)

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UNITED STATES" IGNATZ GQLDBERGER,

PATENT OFFICE.

or" CLEVELAND, oHIo.

leARllniaN-r.

SPECIFICATION forming' part-of vLetters Patent 110,629,678, datedv July 25, '1899.

Application filed October, 1897.` Serial No. 656,693. `(No model.)

To all whom zit may concern.: y

Be it known that I, IGNA'rz GOLDBEBGE, a' citizen of the United States, anda resident of Cleveland, in the county ot' Cuyahoga and State of Ohio, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Garments, of which the following is a specification.

VMy invention relates particularly to` knit garments, and has special'reference to shirts or vests and combination or union suits for women and children; and its object is to improve the garmentV whereby it will avoid-having the sleeves and the body portion made of separate parts or having the sleeves joined to the sides of the body portion and also to improve thetit at the neck and shoulders and to render it an easy and comfortably fitting garment, especially at the base of the arms, so that the same will ht and can be used for any size of arm regardless of thesize'of the body portion.

In garments as heretofore constructed the sleeves and body portion are formed of separate parts and in most cases are knit on different-sized machines. The sleeves are joined to thesides of the body, which joining generally forms heavy seams, which annoy the wearer, and for the enlargement ofthe sleeves at the base of the arm it necessitates the use of gussets, which generally increases the cost of manufacture. In the construction of my improved garment I do away with the gussets and with the seams that join the sleeves to the body, thereby securing a better fit and a more comfortable garment, especially at the arms and shoulders. Also through the construction of my garment the cost of manufacturing the same is greatly reduced,vas I dispense with separate pieces of material to form sleeves and gussets and save the time now required to fit the sleeves and gussets in place and secure them. A garment made of this construction will be low-necked and can be made with any desired sleeve length, as the parts that form the sleeves can be extended or shortened to suit the required length. The shoulders and sleeves thus formed'will have the ribs or wales'of the knitted fabric run ,v in horizontal lines, the elasticity of which yields vertically, While the ribs or wales of the formed bodyV portion will run vertically, the elasticity of which yields horizontally, thereby providing an unlimited `yielding space'at the sleeves between the shoulders garment seamless at the base of the arm,which yield with every movement of the body with the greatest ease and comfort. My invention also relates to means for converting the article into a high-neckedl garment, which consists-in a cape of any denently secured in the cut-out neck-opening and having a vertical slitfor the body-opening, one side of which may be finished with buttons and the other side with buttonholes, so as to provide detachable connections.

My invention also relates to a seat-closure .for drawers and 'combination or union suits, whereby to improve the fit and to' enlarge the garment at the body from the Waist down to the crotch and upper leg portions, where it is most needed. In this` part of my invention the sides vof the seat closure or flaps, which are attached to the seat-opening of the body portion, are of y ova-l shape and overlap and extend from the Waist-line down to the crotch and below lthe crotch .to almost the knees of the leg portions, yforming gussets' to widen tween the leg portions, which are secured to the crotch and extending upward to the front of the. garment. Owing to the seat-naps being of oval shape at ltheir. attached sides an extra width is received at the front and at the back of the body portion from the waist down to the crotch and at the upper leg portions. The garment is thereby formed larger yand Wider at the hips, seat, andleg portions, which when the garment is put on over the body by the wearer the seatftlaps will not gap open, but will close up tightly no matter in what direction the body shall move.l

' In order that my invention may be fully understood, I will proceed to describe it with referencey to the accompanying drawings, in which-L Figure I is a front view of kmy improved garment, showing the neck-opening, sleeves, and shoulders in their properposition, which provides a low-necked sleeved garment. Fig. II is a view of a piece of cloth of tubular body folded iat, showing the front or back of the body and cut portions which form the sleeves,

` and the sides of the body portion, makingthe sired shape, which is inserted and perma.

therefore will not bind or in any Way annoy -v the wearer. It will tit any size armand will f the leg portions, also having extensions be- IOO si l 629,673

ing their right position with relation to eachl other ,before they are attached to the body portion, the flaps being arranged so asto overlap lengthwise at their meeting edges. Fig. VI is a view of the upper part of the body portion, showing it cut out and shaped up to .provide a cape-opening- Fig. VII is a view of the same having the improved cape attached thereto in proper position and providing a high-necked garment. Fig. VIII is a plan View of the cape detaccd from the garment.

A 1 is a piece of knitted ribbed fabric of tubular body of any construction, as shown in Fig; Il, which is folded fiat. From the up per endthe piece is cut through both layers or plies on adividing longitudinal or vertical line from 2 to 3 and thence from the `inner end 3 of this line on a horizontal or transverse line toward both sides to the points 4. The cut portions from 2 to 3 and from 3 to 4 thus formed are turned outwardly to the sides of the body portion 5 to provide a lownecked opening 6, shoulders 7, and sleeves 8, which are made integral or inone piece with the body portion 5, as shown in Figs. I, IIL.

VI, and VII. The cut edges of both layers or plies at front and back ot' the so-formed shoulders and sleeves are stitched or otherwise attached to each other, and to the inner edges of the neck and body openin gis stitched or otherwise attached a lace edging or some other border 9 for the purpose of passing a string or tape 10 through the same to keep the garment from falling oit the'shoulders. The converging lines from 11 toward 3 in Fig. II show where the piece may be cut so as to form a narrowing of -the sleeves, it' required. The converging lines from 4 to 12 in Fig. II` show where the piece is cut out to provide an extended` neck-opening 18, as shown in Fig. VI, or for converting the article into a high-necked garment, as shown in Fig. VII. For this latter purpose I employ a piece of clothof any desired construction and ot any fiber and cut it out in the form of a cape 14 of any desired shape, as shown in Fig. VIII. I cut out a portion to provide a small neck-opening 15 and cut a vertical slit 16 for the body-opening, extending from the neck-opening down to the end on the line 17 to 18. One side of this vbody-opening 15 is finished with buttons 19 and the other side with buttonholes 20, so as to provide detachable connections. This so-called cape is attached or sewed at its edgesl to the edges of the front and back body portion land to the shoulders, with the body-openin g toward the front side, as shown in Fig. VII. The neckopening 15 may be finished and ornamented in any desired style. For forming the leg portions and for `the reception of the seatclosure I cut the piece 1 from itslowerend on a dividing longitudinal or vertical line from 2l to 22 as shown in Fig.` Il.` .The seat-closu`re consists `ot' two symmetrical lapsm23, each flap being hconstructed ofione or more pieces, as shown inV Figs. I,`III, IV, and V. Each piece isformedat one end with a `tapering gusset 24 `and at its other end with an` opening 25, producing an innergusset 26 `and an outer gusset 27. The "two iiaps have their inner edgesoverlapped, as shown in Fig. V, and are attached together at one end byltheir edgeson rdivergentlines from f28to 29, and at their other cndthe inner gussets are secured together ondivergent lines from 30 to 3l,.th us forming' approximately an y oval-shaped seat= closure,with'the inner edges ofthe two flaps left unattached on theilnes` 32 33 34. `The outer edges 35 fromend "to end are attached to the edges of the'body-opening each to its respective side at the back otl the body portion, and the inner edges of the outer gus sets 27 are secured to the upper rear leg portions, while the inner gussets 26 are turned upwardly from below the crotch to the front of the bod y portion` and are attached at their edges to the edges of the opening on the front side of the body portion.

My invention covers all styles of garments,

whether long sleeves, short sleeves, or sleeve less, in vests, pantaloons, and combinationsuits.

Having thus described my invention, the following is what I claim as new thereinand desire to secure by Letters Patent:

l. A garment constructed from a tubular piece ofsuitable material, the plies of the u pper end of which are cut on dividing converging lines, and on a transverse line at the inner end of the converging lines toward the sides ot the body portion; the cut portions` being turned outwardly to the sides of the body portion to produce a neck-opening;` the edgesof the plies which are severed on the converging lines being stitched together to produce shoulders and tapering sleeves integral with the body portion, substantially as described.

2. A garment constructed from a tubular piece of suitable material, the plies of the upper end of which are cut on a dividing longitudinal line, on a transverse line atthe inner end of the longitudinal line toward the sides of the body portion, and on converging lines from the ends of the transverse line to the center of the inner body portion; the edges of the plies which are severed on the longitudinal line being stitched together, and turned outwardly to the sides of the body portion, to produce shoulders and sleeves integral with the body portion, the edges of the plies which are ,cut on the transverse line, and on "the converging lines being finished to produce a low-necked opening," terminating' into a V shape; substantially as described.

3. A garment constructedy from a tubular IOO 'piece of suitable material, the plies of the upper end of which are cut on a dividing longitudinal line and on a transverse line at the inner end of the longitudinal line toward the sides of the body portion, the cut portions being turned outwardly to the sides of the body portion to produce a neck-opening, the edges of the plies which are severed on the longitudinal line being stitched together to produce shoulders and sleeves integral with the body portion, and a cape having a bodyopening and inserted in the neck-opening and permanently secured therein to produce a high-necked garment; substantially as described. v

4. A garment constructed from a tubular piece of suitable material, the plies of the upv per end of which are cut on a dividing longiproduce lshoulders and sleeves integral with the body portion, and the edges of the plies which are cut on the transverse line and on the converging lines being iinished to produce a low-necked opening terminating into a V shape, and a cape having a body-opening and tted in the low-necked opening, and permanently secured therein to produce a high-necked garment; substantially as described.

5. A garment constructed from a tubular piece of suitable material', the plies of the upper endof which are cut on dividing converging lines, and on a transverse line at the inner end of the converginglines toward the sides of the body portion,and on converging lines from the ends of the transverse line to the center of the inner body portion; the edges of the plies. which are severed on the dividing converging lines being stitchedv together and turned outwardly to the sides of the body portion to produce shoulders and taperingsleeves integral with the body portion, the edges of the plies which are cut on the transverse line and on converging lines from the ends of the transverse line being finished to produce a low-necked opening terminating into a V shape, and a cape having an opening, and permanently secured therein whereby the garment is iinished to produce a highnecked garment; substantially as described. 6. The combination with a garment; of the seat-closure consisting of two flaps, each formed of a piece of material formed at one end with a tapering gusset'and at the other end with an opening forming an inner gusset and an outer gusset; the two flaps secured together at their tapering gussets and at the end of their inner gussets and having their inner edges overlapped, the outer edges of the iiaps and outer gussets secured to the leg portions andy the inner gussets turned upwardly from below the crotch to the front of the body portion and'attached at their edges to the edges of the opening at the front side of the body portion; substantially as described.

7 The combination with a'garment; of the seat-closure consisting of two symmetricallyformed flaps of suitable material, each ap being formed at one end with a tapering gusset, and at the other end with an opening forming an inner gusset, and an outer gusset, the two flaps being secured together at their tapering gussets, and at the end of their inner gussets; the combined flaps overlapping each other longitudinally with their inner edges free, and their ou'ter edges attached to the edges of the opening at the back of the body portion with the tapering gussets to the upper end of the opening; the inneredges of the outer gussets being attached to the edges of the opening of the leg portions, and the inner gussets being turned upwardly from below the crotch to the front of the body portion, and attached at their outer edges to the edges of the opening at the front side of the body to produce an overlapping closure, eX- tending from about the waist-line at the back of body portion down to the crotch, and from below the crotch upwardly to about the waistline to the front side of body portion, sub stantially as described.

8. The combination with a garment; of the seat-closure consisting of two symmetricallyformed flaps of suitable lmaterial each flap being formed at one end with a tapering gusset, and at the other end with an opening forming an inner gusset and an outer gusset, the two flaps being secured together at their tapering gussets, and at the end of their inner gussets, the combined flaps overlapping each other longitudinally with the inner edges free, and their outer edges attached to the edges ofthe opening at the back of the body portion with the tapering gussets to the upper end of the opening, the inner edges of the outer gussets being attached to the edges of the opening of the leg portions, and the inner gussets being turned upwardly from below the crotch to the front of the body portion and attached at their outer edges to the vedges of the opening at the front side of the body to produce an overlapping closure, extending from about the waist-line at the back of body portion down to the crotch, and from below the crotch upwardly to about the waistline to the front side of body portion, and gussets to widen the leg portions, and the front side of the bodyportion below the waistline; substantially as described.`

IGNATZ GOLDBERGER.

Witnesses:

H. O. JONES, M. A. BUCKLEY.

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